If there is a knife that has made history and also from school for those who start to try their hand at building knives it is Bob Loveless‘ drop point knife.
Bob Loveless is probably the best designer who has ever produced a knife, as design after design was always right.
Beyond the Drop Point, Sub-Hilts, New York Special, Hideouts, etc. every knife is overcome.
Loveless is like the Ferrari of the knife world.
Loveless has designed and made knives so well that everyone copies it and wants to make a Drop Point when they start making knives.
All knife collectors definitely want to own one if they don’t want to leave a void in their knife collection.
Blues rock legend Eric Clapton also bought an original Loveless.
Loveless’s designs are known all over the world and even those who do not know it by name have seen its knife.
This is not a knife, this is the knife!
The first knife I made or rather I tried to do was the drop point and that is perhaps also why I consider it a school for a knife maker.
The maker who “started” me as in a Masonic sect to the art of knife making told me you have to do 5 drop points all the same.
That’s how it started, making the same knife over and over again, give the wax, remove the wax, give the wax remove the wax.
In fact it is an exceptional method to know the construction difficulties of each knife but not only leads you to acquire real control and also the first hard clash with the reality of making identical copies of the same knife.
A bit like doing covers when you learn to play and repeat the same solo for hours and hours continuously until you understand and dissect all the technical aspects but not only of that song or that solo.
Knife making is also an art form but working freely on your knife is not the same as building replicas because it forces you to respect different “trajectories” that also lead to discover the real greatness of the maker who created it.
It is no coincidence that even here on the coltellimania.com I want to propose Knife Studies like this where I will try to provide you with the drawing of a famous knife that you can use to make your replica starting from the drawing.
The design will be faithful in proportions but respects the copyright of the knife of the famous maker.
The name drop point
The name of this knife comes from the shape of the blade that characterizes it but that has been made even more masterful by the details of the American maker who made it an icon in cutlery and also as I told you before one of the most copied knives.
The drop-point blade is a form of blade that develops over the entire soul of the blade, from the handle of the knife to the tip.
The drop-point blade is a very common design for hunting knives and also from bushcraft.
Bushcraft is a set of knowledge and techniques designed to live in a natural environment, exploiting its resources to meet basic needs such as food and shelter.
The curve at the apex of the drop-point blade is always convex, distinct from that of the clip-point blade.
Go and read the post on the types of blades.
The Loveless Drop Point is an icon in cutlery.
The design of the Drop Point by Bob Loveless
As I told you before I want to provide you with the 1:1 scale drawing of the Drop Point, to help you make it.
This is not the exact original drawing by Bob Loveless but it is something very similar to the original.
With this design you have the guidelines and points for drilling, etc. that you can use to build your drop point.
If it is something that may interest you write me in the comments!
Once done if you like, we publish in a post your drop point here on the blog and if you want we try to sell it.
The nice thing about this knife is that you can play on the different materials for the handle, from micarta, to G10, to bone, wood, etc., insert vulcanized fiber spacers of different colors, loveless pins, or simple pins, etc.
Knife construction is something incredibly creative, from the shape, to the choice of steel, colors, materials, etc.
Being a knife maker is powerful!
What the drop point teaches you:
- Concave bevelling (with 250 mm wheel)
- The tapering of the knife shank
- The assembly of the guard
- The satin finish of the blade
- The handle with a variable ergonomic shape
It teaches you much more but these are construction techniques that you have to deal with in addition to all the others, such as symmetry, the section of the back up to the tip, etc.
Now if you do not have the 250 mm diameter wheel is also fine from 200 mm even if the bevel will be lower, I also did so at first, then I took the 250 mm wheel.
If you do not even have the contact wheel then you can do the flat bevelling and if you do not have the sander then there is the file, what to say do with what you have but do.
There are several ways to do the drop point but look at the photos of Loveless and try to recreate the curves and harmonies of the handle, the ideal is to make 1:1 copies but you can also make your own version of drop point.
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Nice article on the drop point by mr. loveless! I´d like to try and recreate the shape of the knife, in particular the one with the cream-white handle in one of the pictures above. I kind of fell in love with it when seeing it on a forum post, and now i want to try and recreate/imitate this knife. Would it be possible to get a copy of the template shown in your photo? I´m only starting out as a knife maker here in germany and sure, there are plenty of templates for all sorts of knife types, but finding one that fits or closely resembles this loveless hunter proves to be more difficult than expected. I´d be greatful to receive a copy of your template, and if copyright is an issue, well, maybe you have an idea on what we can agree. I know, a knife with a bolster and a specific shape is probaply not the most ideal starting point, and if you have any recommendations on where to start, i´d be happy to try them out. But as you are recommending the drop point as a learning experience, i´d be thankful for any kind of help. Also, one question: did you attend any kind of school to learn this craft? as far as i know, nothing like this exists in my country, at least not where i live, sadly. Do you cut your blades from flat stock or do you forge them? I for my part have started blacksmithing a while ago and want to expand my knowledge, and do what i had in mind when i initially got a propan forge. this project is planned to only include stock removal, as i´m working together with a friend. So, yeah, if you are interested in helping me out with this project or just giving advice-i´d be happy seeing a message coming in from you.
Hi Marlo, sorry if I answer you just now but there was a problem on the platform and the message was not displayed. These days I prepare the 2D model from which you can derive and print the dimensions of that knife.
As for the steel if it is the first, come on I suggest you buy some drawn bars in some sites used in the cutlery, use some MA5MV and in the case of the 5mm thick drop point which is a cheap but high quality steel (they do the scalpels).
As far as hardening is concerned, there are certainly services to which you can send the blade and harden it or otherwise if you do not have a shape and you need to harden the steel at home you must use carbon steels such as C70.