The radius of the bevelling of the knife in the area of the choil and the ricasso is one of the very interesting elements from the aesthetic point of view of a knife and that distinguish the maker.
The ability to control the curve that makes up the start of the bisellatura over aesthetically characterize the knife is also a sign that distinguishes the maker.
It is one of the technical choices of the maker as well as aesthetic and being able to make a perfect symmetry with the same bevel radius is an indication of the ability and quality of the maker.
Often these are details that a knife user notices little but not knife collectors.
Regardless of the height of the bevel there are narrower and wider spokes, passing or emphasizing the strength of the blade and this is a feature to check to give both a personal imprint but also a quality to the knife.
Clearly the passing one can be done when the bevel is full height, it is flat and not concave knife grinding unless you have a very small knife or with a double grinding per side that can be performed with the wheel or even clearly flat.
Consider that the radius and its extension change the load-bearing section along the length of the blade.
Here are the three most common forms of radius:
The wider radius is widely used with even very important variations.
On some models and types of knife I like a lot in others less but I think the radius should always be in harmony with the other curves of the knife.
The narrow radius is what I personally prefer but it is a personal judgment clearly should be used based on the type of knife you are making or the type of reproduction you are making if you want to make a faithful copy.
There is no radius but only the trend that can be straight especially when using jigs or when the bisellation is done with the file or with a slight curve but is totally passing.
Used mainly on Full Flat bevellings.
This method creates a structure of the back of the knife with a very important section along the entire length of the blade.
For many makers this is the correct solution for survival knives, bushcraft knives, etc. or in any case where a very stressful use is required for the blade, where the knife must not only cut, but is mistreated with batoning techniques, twists, levers, etc.
Batoning (baton: stick) is a technique for cutting or separating wood using a stick or hammer to hit the back of the blade …
For me this curve is very important from an aesthetic point of view, but we must never underestimate the destination of the knife because the function is also given by the type of bevel but be able to give if you need an important blade section where it is required.
Clearly it is a personal and aesthetic choice but it is an element that clearly stands out on the blade and also denotes the technical ability of the maker.
Controlling the curve by doing symmetry is not something simple but it is one of the elements of the knife that provides a high-level aesthetic sense when it is done well, with harmony and cleaning of the processing.
Depending on the type of knife it is typical to use narrow or wider beams, so it is important to learn how to control this element during bisellation.
Some makers make a radius almost to 0 creating a broken one without giving continuity to the curve but these are aesthetic choices or in some cases techniques of the construction of the knife.
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