Two-component glue for knives

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Two-component glue for knives coltellimania.com

Two-component glue for knives

Two-component glue for knives.

Bi-component glue is a fundamental element in the construction of the knife used to glue thehandle, spacers, pins,etc.

Knife glue is something you can’t save money on.

How you can guess a poor quality two-component glue means running the risk of detachment of some parts.

Bi-component epoxy glues are the stickers with the best bonding performance.

There are many on the market but there are few that I recommend to use in the construction of a knife.

The three two-component glues for knives that I recommend are:

  • UHU EndFest 300 that you find it in many brico and hardware
  • Mid Cure Epoxy that you find on specialized sites
  • Loxeal 31-42 (Link — > Many American makers also use this glue)

There are many more and if you want to suggest other colleagues write in the comments.

I have tried several but the ones I want to personally recommend are these two that I wrote to you because even if they have a higher price but go on the safe.

If you go to read the sealing features of quality glues expressed in N to cm2, you will see that they are significantly superior not only in price.

UHU Plus 300, epoxy glue with seal up to 300 kg

UHU Plus 300UHU Plus 300 Kg is a solvent-free two-component adhesive based on epoxy resin, allows an extremely strong bonding of many materials with a seal of up to 300 kg and resistance to complete hardening of 1700 N/cm2.

Materials

UHU Plus 300 Kg allows you to glue metals, glass, wood, hard plastics, ceramics, porcelain, rigid PVC and practically any material with the highest results.

It is unsuitable for gluing large glass surfaces to materials subject to dilation.

Features

  • No solvents
  • 1:1 Component Volume Ratio
  • Shock-resistant, weather and temperature resistant from – 20 degrees Celsius to 100 degrees Celsius, as well as moisture, oil, acidic substances and many solvents
  • Processing time 60/90 minutes
  • Hardening at room temperature 12 hours
  • Hardening times, strength and bonding strength can be changed by intervening on the temperature and mixing ratio of the components according to what is required by the application that is intended to be carried out
  • After hardening it is possible to pierce, pierce and whitewash

 

Mid Cure Epoxy

Mid Cure Epoxy

MID-CURE 15 min. epoxy is used in large areas where more working time is needed.

It is more water resistant and can be used as a substitute for QUIK-CURE in most applications.

MID-CURE is the most flexible epoxy and is ideal for gluing fiberglass surfaces.

Leave 45 minutes before moving the piece and 2 hours for full force.

It can actually be done much earlier around 15 minutes but I personally let the glue cure well.

 

Loxeal 31-42

Loxeal 31-42They provide structural joints of considerable toughness, particularly resistant to traction and various chemical agents.

They are suitable for pasting metals, ceramic materials, cement, wood and some plastics.

They are supplied in practice with a two-cartridge package.

The hardening takes place chemical reaction between the two components. The fastening time varies, depending on the chosen system, from 5 to 10 minutes to several hours.

Transparent adhesive of general use with rapid hardening.

Version 31-42 is recommended for structural gluing of numerous materials: metals, ferrite, ceramics, marble, glass, cement, wood and some plastics (polyester, ABS, rigid PVC).

It is not suitable for rubber, soft materials in general, polyethylene, polypropylene (PP) and PTFE.

Glues have good resistance to water, fuels and oils.

Conclusions

Always use quality glue because the difference of a few euros on a glue saves you a lot of time when you find that you are not sure of the handle hold.

He always works with quality materials.

If you use a two-component glue alternative to those that I have recommended and with which you feel good, write me in the comments.

Are You Experience?!

Andrea

Ps. One important thing while making your knife, especially the handle is to avoid overheating the glued parts too much.

 


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Andrea F

Maker and Enthusiast of Knifemaking. Other: Engineer / Professional Blogger / Bass Player / Instructor of Boxing / Muay Thai / Brazilian Jiu Jitsu / Grappling / CSW / MMA / Self Defence / FMA / Dirty Boxing / Silat / Jeet Kune Do & Kali / Fencing Knife / Stick Fighting / Weapons / Firearms. Street Fight Mentality & Fight Sport! State Of Love And Trust!

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